Where can I check current pet food recalls?

The FDA maintains a running list of pet food recalls, withdrawals and safety alerts. Check the lot numbers rather than the brand alone, because recalls are usually limited to specific batches.

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Q: Can my dog get sick from raw food, or only people?

Both. Many dogs carry Salmonella without obvious illness, but dogs and cats can become genuinely unwell with vomiting, diarrhoea, fever and lethargy. Cats are also unusually vulnerable to H5N1 through raw poultry.

Is Raw Pet Food Safe? What the FDA’s Own Testing Found

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3rd October 2026

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Is Raw Pet Food Safe? What the FDA’s Own Testing Found

The short answer: raw pet food carries a far higher chance of carrying Salmonella or Listeria than any other kind of pet food, and the FDA has the sampling data to show it. The bigger surprise for most owners is who gets ill. The clearest documented risk is not to the pet, it is to the people in the kitchen.

FDA laboratory technician handling culture plates during food testing — The FDA screened more than a thousand pet food samples across two years. Raw came out very differently from everything else. (Photo: U.S. Food and Drug Administration, public domain)

What the FDA actually found when it tested

This is the part that rarely makes it into a recall notice. Between October 2010 and July 2012 the FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine screened over 1,000 samples of pet food. In the second year it added 196 samples of commercially available raw dog and cat food. The results are published on the FDA’s own site and the gap is not subtle.

Raw pet food, 196 samples: 15 positive for Salmonella, 32 positive for Listeria monocytogenes
Dry dog and cat food, 240 samples: 1 positive for Salmonella, none for Listeria
Jerky type treats, 190 samples: none for either
Semi moist dog and cat food, 240 samples: none for either
Dry exotic pet food, 190 samples: none for either

Put plainly, roughly one in four raw samples carried one of the two organisms. Across nearly 900 samples of everything else, there was a single positive. That is not a rounding difference, it is a different category of product.

Colour enhanced electron microscope image of Salmonella bacteria invading cells — Salmonella, magnified and colour enhanced. In a dog it may cause nothing at all. In a toddler it is a different story. (Photo: NIAID, public domain)

The risk lands on your household, not just your pet

Here is the bit that genuinely surprises people. A healthy adult dog can shed Salmonella in its stool while looking completely fine. The animal is not the patient. The patient is whoever touches the bowl, the worktop, the fridge shelf, or the dog’s face afterwards.

The FDA and the CDC both make the same point: contaminated raw pet food can sicken the people handling it, through hands, surfaces, bowls and the pet itself. Young children, adults over 65, pregnant women and anyone with a weakened immune system carry the most risk.

So the honest way to think about a raw diet is not “will my dog cope with this”. It is “am I prepared to run a small raw meat processing operation in my kitchen, every day, without slipping”. If there is a baby crawling on that floor, the question answers itself.

Hand sanitiser dispensers under a sign reading please clean your hands — Twenty seconds, every time, is the FDA’s actual instruction. Most people manage it for a week. (Photo: James Heilman, MD / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0)

Bird flu changed the maths for cats

Until recently this was a bacteria conversation. Then H5N1 arrived in the pet food supply.

At the end of December 2024, Los Angeles County’s public health department advised residents not to feed their pets Monarch Raw Pet Food sold at several California farmers markets. One house cat in the county was confirmed infected with H5N1 and four other cats in the same home were presumed positive. Separately, an Oregon house cat died after eating Northwest Naturals Feline Turkey Recipe, a frozen raw product that tested positive for the virus and was distributed across thirteen states and British Columbia.

Dr Michael Q. Bailey, then president elect of the American Veterinary Medical Association, put it bluntly to CBS News: raw milk and raw meat products can be and are a vector for carrying the virus.

The FDA has since told manufacturers that H5N1 counts as a known or reasonably foreseeable hazard when they use uncooked or unpasteurised material from poultry or cattle, which means it has to be written into their food safety plans. Cats are unusually susceptible, and in them the illness can move fast: fever, lethargy, heavy discharge from the eyes and nose, breathing trouble, then neurological signs.

Why the recalls keep coming

2026 has not been quiet. Northwest Naturals, Viva Raw and Raaw Energy have all pulled product over Salmonella or Listeria, and Go Raw expanded a recall to cover a lot of Steve’s Real Food freeze dried chicken over low thiamine, which is a different failure mode entirely and one we have written about before.

The pattern is structural rather than bad luck. Cooking is a kill step. Take it out and nothing downstream reliably replaces it, so the safety of the finished product depends entirely on the raw material and the handling, every single batch, forever. Freezing does not fix this. Freezing stops bacteria multiplying, it does not kill what is already there.

But cats eat raw prey, surely that settles it

Black and white cat carrying a rabbit it has caught across grass — A fresh kill and a frozen supermarket block are not the same object, whatever the marketing says. (Photo: Eddy Van 3000 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

It is a fair argument and it deserves a real answer rather than an eye roll. Cats do eat raw prey, and they are built for it.

The gap is in what happens between the animal and the bowl. A rabbit caught in the garden is eaten within minutes, by one cat, outdoors. Commercial raw is slaughtered somewhere else, ground, mixed with other carcasses, packed, frozen, shipped, thawed in your kitchen and served next to where you make toast. Each of those steps is a chance for contamination to enter and spread, and grinding in particular takes anything on the surface and distributes it right through the batch.

Owners choose raw for reasons that are easy to understand: better coats, smaller stools, a sense that it is closer to what the animal evolved to eat. Some of that is real and visible. The point is not that those owners are foolish. It is that the food safety risk is measurable and documented, while the health benefits remain largely anecdotal, and that is an uncomfortable trade rather than an obvious win.

If you are going to feed raw anyway

Dry kibble in a pale ceramic bowl on a wooden floor — Not an argument that kibble is perfect. Only that it has a kill step, and raw does not. (Photo: James Redekop / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

Plenty of people will read all of the above and carry on, and that is their call to make. The FDA’s own handling guidance is worth following properly rather than approximately:

Wash your hands for a full twenty seconds after any contact with the food, the bowl or the packaging.
Clean and disinfect every surface it touched, hot soapy water first, then a disinfectant. Wiping is not disinfecting.
Thaw in the fridge or the microwave, never on the worktop.
Do not rinse raw meat. Rinsing sprays bacteria around the sink rather than removing them.
Keep it physically separate from human food, with its own board and utensils.
Refrigerate what the pet does not finish straight away, and do not leave a bowl down all day.
Avoid letting a pet lick your face after a raw meal, and keep them off food preparation surfaces.

If anyone in the house is pregnant, under five, over sixty five or immunocompromised, this is the point to talk to your vet about whether a cooked or commercially sterilised alternative gets you most of what you wanted with far less exposure. Portion control matters just as much on raw as on anything else, and our guide to how much to feed a cat still applies.

Frequently asked questions

Does freezing raw pet food kill Salmonella?

No. Freezing halts bacterial growth but does not reliably kill Salmonella or Listeria. Both can survive freezing and become active again once the food thaws, which is why a frozen product can still test positive.

Can my dog get sick from raw food, or only people?

Both. Many dogs carry Salmonella without obvious illness, which is part of the problem, but dogs and cats can become genuinely unwell with vomiting, diarrhoea, fever and lethargy. Cats are also unusually vulnerable to H5N1 through raw poultry.

Is freeze dried or air dried raw any safer?

Not automatically. Drying removes moisture rather than applying a kill step, and freeze dried raw products appear in recalls alongside frozen ones. Check whether the manufacturer applies a validated pathogen treatment, and treat the answer “we test batches” as weaker than “we apply a kill step”.

What should I do if my pet ate a recalled product?

Stop feeding it, keep the packaging with the lot number, wash and disinfect anything it touched, and ring your vet for advice even if your pet seems fine. Watch for vomiting, diarrhoea, fever or lethargy, and take special care if anyone in the household is in a higher risk group.

Where can I check current recalls?

The FDA maintains a running list of pet food recalls, withdrawals and safety alerts, and it is the primary source that news coverage is drawn from. Check the lot numbers rather than the brand alone, because recalls are usually limited to specific batches.

The honest summary

Raw feeding is not a fringe choice and the people who do it are not careless. But the sampling data is what it is: roughly a quarter of raw samples positive, against one positive in nearly nine hundred samples of everything else. The hazard is real, it is mostly aimed at the humans in the house, and it does not go away with a better brand. It only gets smaller with handling discipline that has to hold every single day.

Household chemicals follow the same logic, and the one that kills fastest is antifreeze. Keeping an animal safe is mostly a series of small, boring routines that nobody notices when they work.

This article is general information, not veterinary advice. Talk to your vet about what suits your pet and your household, and contact them straight away if you think your pet is unwell.

Antifreeze Poisoning in Dogs and Cats: How Little It Takes

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29th September 2026

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Antifreeze Poisoning in Dogs and Cats: How Little It Takes

The short answer: antifreeze poisoning happens when a pet swallows ethylene glycol, a sweet tasting liquid used in engine coolant. A cat can die from about one teaspoon. Cats need veterinary treatment within roughly three hours of swallowing it, dogs within eight to twelve. Once the kidneys start failing, the odds drop sharply.

Bright green engine coolant filling an open reservoir under a car bonnet — That bright green is the colour most people picture, though coolant also comes in orange, pink and blue. (Photo: EvelynGiggles / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0)

Why a pet would drink something that kills it

This is the part that catches owners out. Antifreeze isn’t something a cat tolerates by accident. It’s something a cat actively wants. Ethylene glycol is a sweet tasting, odourless liquid, and VCA Hospitals notes that cats may be drawn to it by both its smell and its taste.

So the usual mental model, that pets avoid things that are bad for them, just doesn’t hold here. A cat that walks past a drip under a parked car will often stop and lap it up. A dog that finds a puddle in a garage will drink it the way it drinks from any other puddle. Nothing about the experience warns them.

Manufacturers know this. Back in December 2012 the industry agreed voluntarily to add denatonium benzoate, an intensely bitter compound, to antifreeze sold in the United States, and the AVMA reported the agreement at the time. Seventeen states already required it. That’s a genuine improvement. It is not a guarantee, and vets still see cases every winter, because a bitter taste doesn’t do much to stop a thirsty animal that’s already swallowing.

How little it actually takes

Small glass vial of clear ethylene glycol, the ingredient that makes antifreeze deadly — Pure ethylene glycol is clear and syrupy. The colour you see in coolant is dye, not the poison itself. (Photo: LHcheM / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0)

The numbers are genuinely small. The Merck Veterinary Manual puts the minimum lethal dose of undiluted ethylene glycol at 1.4 mL per kilogram of body weight in cats, and 4.4 to 6.6 mL per kilogram in dogs.

Translated into things you can picture, the Pet Poison Helpline puts it at about one teaspoon for a cat, and a tablespoon or two for a dog, depending on size. A four kilogram cat is in lethal territory after roughly a teaspoon of the neat stuff. That is less than a bottle cap.

Cats are far more sensitive than dogs, which is why the same spill can be survivable for the labrador and fatal for the cat that shares the driveway.

The clock starts the moment they swallow

Ethylene glycol is absorbed fast. Merck records peak absorption at one to four hours after ingestion, with a serum half life of about three hours. The poison itself isn’t what destroys the kidneys. The body breaks it down into metabolites, and those are what do the damage. That single fact is why timing matters so much: the antidote works by stopping that breakdown, so it only helps while there’s still unmetabolised ethylene glycol to stop.

Wait until the pet looks properly ill, and that conversion has already happened.

The Pet Poison Helpline gives the working windows as three hours for cats and eight to twelve hours for dogs. The ASPCA’s guidance for professionals is slightly more generous for cats at four hours. Either way, you’re dealing in hours, not days, and the honest advice is to stop reading and phone someone now if this is happening to you.

What the first three days look like

Cat walking across fresh snow in the season when antifreeze use peaks — Cases cluster in autumn, winter and early spring, when people top up or change their coolant. (Photo: Von.grzanka / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0)

Merck describes three stages, and the cruel part is the gap in the middle.

Stage one, roughly 30 minutes to 12 hours. The pet looks drunk. Wobbly on its feet, dazed, vomiting, drinking and urinating far more than usual. Owners often read this as a bug, or as the cat having got into something mildly unpleasant. Around the twelve hour mark many animals appear to pick up.

Stage two, 12 to 24 hours in cats and 36 to 72 hours in dogs. The kidneys begin to fail. The kidneys swell and become painful, heart rate and breathing speed up, the animal goes off food, becomes lethargic, and may develop ulceration in the gut. Seizures and coma are possible.

Stage three. Acute kidney failure that can’t be reversed. Urine output drops and then stops.

Two of those early signs deserve a flag, because they overlap with things owners already worry about. Heavy drinking and urinating is also the classic presentation of diabetes in dogs and cats, and fast breathing is on the list when you’re working out why your dog is panting so much. Sudden onset, in an animal with access to a garage or a driveway, is what pushes antifreeze to the top of the list.

Where pets actually find it

Puddles spread across a wet road, the kind a thirsty pet will stop and drink from — A coolant leak spreads into ordinary puddles, and nothing about the taste puts an animal off. (Photo: Anna Bauer / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0)

Hardly any of these cases involve a pet knocking a bottle off a shelf. The usual routes are duller and easier to miss:

A slow leak from a car radiator or hose, pooling where the car is parked
Spills from topping up or draining coolant, especially when the job is done outside on a cold morning
An open or badly capped container in a garage or shed the pet can get into
Puddles on a shared driveway or in a car park, where the leak came from someone else’s car entirely
Older toilet antifreeze and some screenwash and brake fluid products, which can also contain ethylene glycol

Outdoor cats and cats with garage access are the highest risk group, partly because they roam and partly because it takes so little to hurt them.

What to do if you even suspect it

Vet shining a light into a kitten eye during an emergency examination — There is an in house blood test for ethylene glycol, so a vet can confirm it quickly. (Photo: The National Guard / Wikimedia Commons, public domain)

Treat suspicion as confirmation. The cost of being wrong in the other direction is too high.

Phone a vet or a poison line immediately. In the United States, Pet Poison Helpline is on (855) 764-7661 and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center is on (888) 426-4435, both 24 hours. Both charge a consultation fee. Pay it.
Say what you suspect and when. The time of exposure is the single most useful thing you can tell them, even if it’s a guess with a range.
Take the container or a photo of it if you have one, so the product and concentration are known.
Don’t make your pet vomit unless a vet tells you to on that call.
Go in, even if the pet seems fine. Looking fine at hour two means nothing. Looking fine at hour twelve can be the gap between stage one and stage two.

Vets can confirm it quickly. VCA notes there’s an in house test that detects ethylene glycol in the bloodstream, alongside blood and urine work. Treatment is an antidote called fomepizole, which blocks the enzyme that turns ethylene glycol into the metabolites that wreck the kidneys. Cats need a much bigger dose than dogs, 125 mg per kilogram to start against 20 mg per kilogram, which tells you something about how differently the two species handle it.

On prognosis, VCA is blunt: it’s very poor once clinical signs have developed, and a delay of even a few hours usually kills a cat. That sounds harsh written down. It’s also the reason this article exists.

How to cut the risk at home

Owner walking a small white dog along a path in cold weather — On winter walks, the puddles worth steering around are the ones near parked cars. (Photo: Helgi Halldórsson / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

None of this needs to be elaborate:

Buy propylene glycol coolant instead. It’s the standard safer substitute and it’s sold everywhere. It isn’t harmless, but it doesn’t carry anything like the same risk.
Fix leaks rather than topping up. A drip you’ve been ignoring since summer is the classic source.
Clean spills properly. Absorb, then wash the area down thoroughly. Don’t leave a rinsed patch that’s still sweet.
Store containers sealed and off the floor, in something the cat can’t get behind.
Check under your car where you park, especially through autumn and winter. Merck notes cases cluster in the colder months.
Steer round puddles on walks near parked cars and in car parks.

It’s the same logic that applies to the other household poisons worth knowing about, from chocolate through to grapes and raisins, which also attack the kidneys in dogs. Assume the pet will find it, and put it out of reach before they do.

Frequently asked questions

How long after drinking antifreeze will a cat show symptoms?

Usually within 30 minutes to 12 hours. Early signs look like drunkenness, with wobbling, vomiting and heavy drinking and urinating. Many cats then seem to improve around the 12 hour mark, which is misleading, because that’s when the kidney damage is getting under way.

Can a dog survive antifreeze poisoning?

Yes, if treatment starts early. Dogs have a longer window than cats, generally eight to twelve hours. Survival drops steeply once kidney failure has set in, so the deciding factor is almost always how fast the animal got to a vet.

Does the bittering agent make antifreeze safe now?

No. Adding denatonium benzoate makes antifreeze less appealing, and it’s a worthwhile change, but poisonings still happen. Treat every coolant as lethal regardless of what’s on the label.

How much antifreeze is toxic to a dog?

Merck gives a minimum lethal dose of 4.4 to 6.6 mL per kilogram of undiluted ethylene glycol. For everyday purposes, a tablespoon or two can kill a dog depending on its size, and smaller dogs are at much greater risk.

Is pet safe antifreeze genuinely safe?

Propylene glycol based products are much safer than ethylene glycol ones, which is why they’re worth buying. They’re still not something you want your pet drinking, so store and clean up after them the same way.

The one thing to take away

If your pet has been near coolant and is behaving oddly, don’t wait to see how they are in the morning. With cats in particular, the morning is usually too late. Phone a vet, say what you think they’ve drunk, and go in.

This article is general information, not veterinary advice. If you think your pet has swallowed antifreeze, contact your vet or an emergency poison line straight away.

Diabetes in Dogs and Cats: The Signs Owners Miss

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28th September 2026

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Diabetes in Dogs and Cats: The Signs Owners Miss

Your vet now works from two separate diabetes rulebooks: one for dogs, one for cats. The American Animal Hospital Association split its 2026 guidelines by species for the first time, and the reason matters to you rather than just to the clinic.

Diabetes is not really one disease. In dogs and in cats it behaves differently enough that the treatment, the monitoring and even the odds of the pet coming off medication are not the same.

The Short Answer

Watch for four things: drinking much more, weeing much more, eating well but losing weight, and new tiredness. Every diabetic dog needs insulin for life. Some cats can go into remission, and a few now qualify for a daily liquid or tablet instead of injections. Any of those four signs means a vet appointment.

White cat with one blue eye and one amber eye looking at the camera — Drinking and weeing more are the two signs owners spot first, in cats and dogs alike. (Photo: Peter Forster, CC BY SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons)

The Four Signs Owners Notice First

These are the classic ones, and they turn up in that order surprisingly often.

Drinking much more than usual. Refilling the bowl more often, or a cat suddenly drinking from taps and glasses when it never did.
Weeing much more. Bigger or more frequent puddles, a house-trained dog asking to go out at night, a litter tray that needs changing far more often.
Eating normally or more, while losing weight. This is the one that should really get your attention. Food is going in and the animal is still shrinking, because the sugar is not reaching the cells that need it.
New tiredness or weakness. Less interest in walks, sleeping more, a cat that stops jumping onto the things it used to.

Individually each of these has a dozen innocent explanations. Two or three together is a pattern. If your cat is drinking more and using the tray more, it is worth ruling this out before assuming it is a litter tray or behaviour problem.

Why Dogs and Cats Now Have Separate Guidelines

AAHA published its 2026 guidelines as two documents, one canine and one feline, in recognition of what it calls the unique nature of the disease process in each species. In plain terms:

Dogs develop a form with an absolute insulin deficiency, caused by permanent loss of the beta cells that make insulin. Those cells do not come back. Every diabetic dog is insulin deficient and every diabetic dog needs insulin therapy. There is no version of this where a dog is managed on diet alone.

Cats are different. Their diabetes more often resembles the human type 2 picture, where the pancreas is still working but the body has stopped responding properly. Catch it early, get the weight and diet right, and some cats stop needing treatment altogether. That is called remission, and it is not available to dogs.

A hand holding a small insulin syringe measured out for a cat — Every diabetic dog needs insulin. Some cats now have an oral alternative. (Photo: Melissa Wiese, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons)

What This Means If You Have a Dog

Insulin, twice a day, for life, alongside a consistent feeding schedule. That sounds daunting and it is genuinely a commitment, but AAHA’s own framing is worth quoting back to yourself on the bad days: diabetic dogs can live a good quality of life with few or no clinical signs, given attentive care, dietary and schedule adjustments, and diligent follow-up.

The practical points that make it work are routine ones. Feed at the same times. Inject at the same times. Keep the diet consistent rather than switching foods on a whim. Go to the follow-up appointments even when the dog seems fine, because seeming fine is the goal, not the finish line.

What This Means If You Have a Cat

Two things have changed, and both are good news.

First, injections are no longer the only option for every cat. The 2026 guidelines include recommendations on SGLT2 inhibitors, a class of drug given by mouth, following FDA approval of Bexacat in 2022 and Senvelgo in 2023. These are for otherwise healthy cats with diabetes that have not previously been treated with insulin. That last part matters: they are not a swap-in for a cat already stabilised on injections, and they are not suitable for a cat that is unwell at diagnosis.

Second, the monitoring has changed. Routine in-hospital blood glucose curves are no longer recommended for cats, because stress hyperglycaemia in a hospitalised cat can distort the readings badly enough to be misleading. A frightened cat at the vet produces high sugar readings whether or not its diabetes is controlled. Feline monitoring now leans on clinical signs, continuous glucose monitoring and glucose data collected at home.

If your vet suggests a sensor on the cat’s skin rather than a day of admissions and blood draws, that is the current guidance, not a shortcut.

Several handheld blood glucose meters used to measure blood sugar — For cats, at home and continuous monitoring has replaced the routine in clinic glucose curve. (Photo: Christidy, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

The Emergency Nobody Warns You About

Untreated diabetes can tip into diabetic ketoacidosis, and that is a life-threatening emergency rather than a bad day. Go straight to a vet if you see:

Vomiting, especially with any of the four signs above
Complete loss of appetite in an animal that was eating well
Rapid or laboured breathing
Sweet or acetone-smelling breath
Collapse, severe weakness, or an animal that cannot be roused properly

This is the reason the four early signs are worth acting on rather than watching for another fortnight. Lethargy and appetite loss can look like a hundred milder things, which is also true of stress in cats and of unexplained panting in dogs. The difference is how fast this one moves once it turns.

What to Do Now

Measure the water. Fill the bowl with a measuring jug for two days and write down how much goes in. “He seems thirsty” is hard for a vet to act on. “She is drinking a litre a day and she is a 4 kg cat” is not.
Weigh your pet. Home scales are fine. Weight loss alongside a good appetite is the single most useful thing you can report.
Book the appointment. Diagnosis is a blood and urine test, not a guess, and it is quick.
Take your notes with you. Water volume, weight trend, appetite, and when you first noticed.
Ask specifically about the 2026 guidelines if you have a cat. Whether an oral option or a glucose sensor suits your cat is a conversation worth having rather than assuming injections are the only path.

Keeping weight sensible is the one thing that genuinely reduces the risk in cats, which makes getting portions right more useful than it sounds.

Small black and white long haired dog standing on grass on a lead — Two measurements make the appointment far more useful: water drunk per day, and weight. (Photo: Joliot, CC BY SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons)

Common Questions

Can diabetes in dogs be cured? No. The insulin-producing cells are permanently lost, so treatment is lifelong. It can be controlled well.

Can a cat really come off insulin? Yes, some do. Remission is most likely when it is caught early and weight and diet are addressed properly. It is not guaranteed and it can be lost again.

Is it caused by feeding sugar? No. Obesity is a genuine risk factor in cats, but a dog does not become diabetic from the odd biscuit. In dogs it is largely immune-mediated and genetic.

Which breeds are more at risk? In dogs, terriers, Samoyeds, Miniature Schnauzers and Poodles turn up disproportionately. In cats, Burmese have a known predisposition, and overweight middle-aged neutered males are the classic picture.

How much does it cost to manage? Ask your own vet, because insulin type, dose and monitoring vary widely. Ask at diagnosis rather than later, so you can plan properly.

The Bottom Line

Drinking more, weeing more, eating well while losing weight, and new tiredness. That is the list. In a dog it means insulin for life and a routine that works. In a cat it might mean remission, or a tablet instead of a needle, especially if you catch it early.

The 2026 guidelines are aimed at vets rather than owners, but the headline is worth knowing: your dog and your cat have genuinely different diseases with the same name. You can read AAHA’s own summary of the 2026 canine guidelines and the feline guidelines.

This article is general information for pet owners, not veterinary advice. If you think your dog or cat may be diabetic, contact your veterinary practice.

Thiamine Deficiency in Cats: Signs Owners Miss

Health
Cats

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27th September 2026

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Thiamine Deficiency in Cats: Signs Owners Miss

Most pet food recalls are about bacteria. This one is the opposite problem. In 2026 the FDA warned that testing found eight lots of one cat food with extremely low or no thiamine, and thiamine is a vitamin cats cannot go without for long.

The reason it matters is the speed. A cat eating a thiamine deficient diet can go from slightly off its food to neurological signs in a matter of weeks, and most owners have never been told what those signs look like.

The Short Answer

Thiamine, or vitamin B1, is essential for cats and they cannot make enough of it themselves. Early deficiency looks like a poor appetite, drooling and vomiting. Later it becomes neurological: a head that droops toward the floor, wobbling, circling and seizures. Caught early it is usually reversible.

A tabby and white cat sitting upright on a striped rug indoors — Cats store very little thiamine, so they need it from food every single day. (Photo: Nick.mon, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons)

Why Cats Are Especially Vulnerable

Thiamine is water soluble, which means the body stores very little of it. Cats have to take it in from food every day, and they need more of it per kilogram than dogs do. There is no reserve to fall back on.

That is normally fine, because complete cat foods are formulated to include it. The vitamin is fragile though. It degrades with heat during processing, and it can be destroyed by certain preservatives or by thiaminase, an enzyme found in some raw fish. So deficiency turns up in three situations: a food that was made wrong, a home prepared diet that was never balanced properly, or a cat eating a lot of raw fish.

It is also worth saying what does not cause it. A cat on a reputable complete food, wet or dry, is not at risk. This is a manufacturing and formulation problem, not something you cause by choosing the wrong flavour.

What the 2026 Recalls Actually Said

Go Raw LLC began with a voluntary recall of a single lot of Quest Cat Food Chicken Recipe Freeze Dried Nuggets, a 10 oz bag with lot code C25288 and a best by date of 15 October 2027, because it may have contained low levels of thiamine.

It did not stop there. The company later expanded the recall across Quest products and enacted a stop sale on all of them, and expanded again to include a lot of Steve’s Real Food Freeze Dried Chicken Recipe. The FDA then issued its own advisory saying agency testing showed eight lots of Quest cat food contained extremely low or no thiamine, and that continued feeding could cause serious harm including death.

If any of that is in your cupboard, stop feeding it and check the current lot numbers on the FDA advisory rather than on any article, because recalls get expanded.

An opened tin of wet cat food photographed from above — Check the brand, the product and the lot code, not just the flavour. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons, CC BY SA 3.0)

The Early Signs, Which Are Easy to Dismiss

This is the stage where it is still simple to fix, and also the stage most owners sail past because the signs look like a hundred ordinary things.

A drop in appetite, or going off food entirely.
Drooling or excess salivation.
Vomiting.
Weight loss over days or weeks.

Any one of those alone is unremarkable. A cat that has gone quiet and stopped eating is worth attention regardless of the cause, and the same goes for changes in how much it vocalises or where it chooses to sit. We have written about the signs a cat is stressed and what changes in meowing can mean, because behaviour shifts are often the first thing an owner notices about anything.

What makes this different is the combination, and the context. Poor appetite plus drooling plus a food that has been recalled is not a coincidence to wait out.

Close up of a cat's face with its mouth open — Drooling and a sudden loss of appetite are the signs owners most often wave away. (Photo: Augustus Binu, CC BY SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons)

The Sign That Means Go Now

If deficiency continues, it moves to the nervous system, and one posture in particular is close to diagnostic.

Cervical ventroflexion is the term. In plain language, the cat’s neck bends downward and it cannot lift its head properly. The chin tucks toward the chest or the floor and stays there. A cat crouching low to the ground is normal. A cat that cannot raise its head to look at you is not.

Alongside it you may see:

A wobbly, unsteady walk
Circling
Falling over
Dilated pupils
Seizures

Those are emergency signs. Not tomorrow, not the weekend clinic if it gets worse. That day.

A tabby cat lying stretched out on a white ledge — A relaxed cat like this one can still lift its head. That is the difference to watch for. (Photo: Alvesgaspar, CC BY SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons)

The Good News About Treatment

Here is the part worth holding on to: treated promptly, thiamine deficiency is typically reversible. Vets give thiamine, usually by injection at first, alongside a corrected diet, and cats caught at the early stage often improve strikingly fast.

The qualifier is that word promptly. The longer the neurological signs go on, the more likely some damage sticks. That is the whole reason for learning the head droop: it is the difference between a cat that bounces back and one that does not.

What to Do Right Now

Check what you are feeding. Look at the brand, the product and the lot code on the bag or tin, then compare with the FDA advisory and the recall notices.
Stop feeding anything recalled immediately. Do not use up the bag.
Keep the packaging. If your cat does become unwell, the lot code is what your vet and the FDA need.
Call your vet if your cat is off its food, drooling or vomiting, and say which food it has been eating. That context changes how they prioritise you.
Go straight in for any neurological sign, above all a head that will not lift.
Report it. Owners can report pet food problems to the FDA through its Safety Reporting Portal, which is how patterns get spotted.

If you are switching foods as a result, do it gradually where you can, and keep an eye on litter tray habits during the change. A sudden diet swap is a common trigger for litter tray problems, and portion sizes often need adjusting too, which we cover in how much to feed a cat.

A black cat crouching low on a blue background — Crouching low is normal feline behaviour. Being unable to raise the head is not. (Photo: Jennifer C., CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons)

Common Questions

Can dry food cause thiamine deficiency? Any food can if it was made or stored badly, because heat degrades thiamine. Complete foods from established manufacturers are formulated with that loss allowed for.

Is raw feeding riskier? It can be, for two reasons. Some raw fish contains thiaminase, which destroys thiamine, and home prepared raw diets are easy to get wrong nutritionally. Both recalled products here were freeze dried raw style foods.

How quickly does deficiency develop? Faster than most owners expect. Because cats store so little, signs can appear within weeks of starting a deficient diet rather than months.

Can I just buy a B1 supplement? Do not treat this at home. If you suspect deficiency your cat needs a vet, because dosing and the route matter and the neurological signs need assessing properly.

Are dogs at risk too? Dogs can develop thiamine deficiency, but they need less of it relative to body weight and have a little more margin. These particular recalls were cat foods.

The Bottom Line

Thiamine deficiency is rare, entirely preventable and genuinely dangerous when it happens. The practical action is small: know what is in your cupboard, check the lot codes against the FDA notices, and learn one posture. A cat that cannot lift its head needs a vet today.

For the underlying science, the review on the role of thiamine and effects of deficiency in dogs and cats is a clear read.

This article is general information for cat owners, not veterinary advice. If you think your cat may be affected, contact your veterinarian straight away.

That recall sat alongside a run of Salmonella and Listeria recalls in raw pet food, and the FDA’s own sampling shows why raw keeps appearing on those lists. We went through the numbers in is raw pet food safe.

Screwworm in Dogs and Cats: Signs Every Owner Should Know

Health
Dogs

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27th September 2026

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Screwworm in Dogs and Cats: Signs Every Owner Should Know

Most of the screwworm coverage this year has been about cattle. That leaves a lot of dog and cat owners with one obvious question nobody is answering directly: can this happen to my pet, and what am I supposed to look for?

The short version is yes, it can. A dog has already been confirmed. Here is what the signs actually look like, where to check, and what to do if you find something.

The Short Answer

New World screwworm is a fly whose maggots feed on the living flesh of animals. It can infest dogs and cats, not just livestock. Check any open wound and the eyes, ears, nose, mouth and genitals for maggots, white egg masses or a foul smell, and call your vet immediately if you find them.

Veterinarian in a face mask examining a dog indoors during a check up — Any healing wound is worth a proper look, not a glance. (Photo: Pexels)

What New World Screwworm Actually Is

New World screwworm, usually shortened to NWS, is a fly. The adult lays its eggs in a wound or in a body opening such as the eyes, ears, nose, mouth or genitals. Those eggs hatch into maggots, and the maggots feed on living tissue rather than dead tissue. That is the part that makes it different from the ordinary flystrike some owners have seen before, and it is why the damage gets serious so quickly.

USDA describes it plainly: it mostly affects livestock, but it can also infest cats, dogs, wildlife and people. A wound does not need to be large. A scratch, a tick bite, a healing surgical site or even a newborn animal’s navel is enough of an opening.

Has It Reached Pets in the United States?

Yes. USDA confirmed the first US detection on 3 June 2026, in a cow in Zavala County, Texas. Days later, on 8 June, officials confirmed two more cases: a calf in La Salle County, Texas, and, importantly for pet owners, a dog. That dog was first reported in Andrews County, Texas, but actually lived in Lea County, New Mexico, which made it the first confirmed case in that state. A goat in Gillespie County, Texas was confirmed as well.

So this is no longer hypothetical for pets. It is one confirmed dog, not an epidemic, and the distinction matters. But it is enough that knowing the signs is worth ten minutes of your attention.

Case numbers change. USDA keeps a live dashboard of confirmed detections by county, state and species at screwworm.gov, and that is the place to check rather than any article, including this one.

Two dogs resting on grass in an open field beside a travel crate — One dog has been confirmed in the United States so far, in Lea County, New Mexico. (Photo: Pexels)

The Signs to Check For

USDA’s guidance for cat and dog owners lists three things to watch for. They are worth learning properly, because the first one is unmistakable once you know it.

Maggots or white egg masses in wounds or body openings such as the eyes, ears, nose, mouth or genitals. The egg masses look like small clusters of white or cream coloured grains, often at the edge of a wound.
A foul odour, or the smell of decay. Owners often notice this before they see anything. A wound that has started to smell wrong is a wound that needs looking at today.
Signs of pain. USDA lists irritated behaviour, depression, not eating, and isolating themselves from other animals or people.

That last group is the one people miss, because it looks like a hundred other things. A dog that suddenly wants to be left alone, or a cat that stops eating and hides, is telling you something. Behaviour changes are worth taking seriously in general, which is why we wrote about the signs a cat is stressed and what unexplained panting in dogs can mean.

Where to Check on Your Dog or Cat

You are looking at two categories: anything open, and anything moist.

Any wound at all. Cuts, grazes, bite wounds, torn nails, hot spots, surgical sites that are still healing.
Ears, inside and around the base.
Eyes and the skin immediately around them.
Nose and mouth, including the gum line.
Genitals and rear end.
Under the collar and harness, where rubbing creates small sores owners rarely see.

If your dog scratches or chews itself raw, you have a standing supply of small open wounds, which is worth fixing for its own sake. Our guide to why dogs scratch so much covers the usual causes, and dealing with fleas removes one of the biggest.

Close up of a cat ear, one of the body openings to check for screwworm — Ears, eyes, nose, mouth and genitals are all openings USDA tells owners to check. (Photo: Pexels)

What to Do If You Suspect It

Do not try to treat it yourself, and do not wait to see how it looks tomorrow.

USDA’s instruction is to report signs of NWS immediately to your local veterinarian, your State veterinarian’s office, or USDA. Ring your vet first and tell them what you have seen, because they may want to take precautions before you arrive.

If you think a person has been affected, contact your healthcare provider right away. Healthcare providers are asked to report suspected cases to local or state public health authorities.

Resist the urge to pull maggots out or flush the wound with something from the cupboard. This is a reportable situation, and the animal needs a vet who can treat the wound properly and notify the right people.

Travelling With a Dog or Cat

This is where most owners will actually run into the rules, and the requirements have teeth.

Dogs arriving from NWS affected countries, including dogs returning home to the United States, need a health certificate signed by an official government veterinarian in the country of departure. That certificate has to confirm two things: that the dog was inspected for NWS within 5 days of travel, and that the dog does not have an infestation.

USDA is blunt about the consequence of getting this wrong. Pets showing signs of infestation may be denied entry into the United States and sent back to the country of departure at the owner’s expense. That is a long flight and a large bill.

Before you travel, USDA suggests talking to your vet about the risk factors and the signs, booking exams both before and after the trip, asking honestly whether the trip with your pet is necessary at all, and finding veterinary resources at your destination in advance. The US Embassy or consulate in your destination country can often help you find local vets. Full details are in USDA’s traveller guidance for cats and dogs.

Golden Retriever sitting inside a secure travel crate ready for transport — Dogs returning from affected countries need a vet certificate dated within 5 days of travel. (Photo: Pexels)

How Worried Should You Actually Be?

Honestly? Aware, not frightened.

One dog has been confirmed in the United States so far, against a background of cases that are overwhelmingly in livestock. If you live nowhere near the affected counties, do not travel with your pet, and keep wounds clean and covered, your practical risk today is low.

What makes this worth knowing anyway is how cheap the precaution is. Checking a wound properly takes a minute. Noticing a smell takes no time at all. And the cost of missing it is severe, because the maggots are feeding on living tissue while you wait.

The sensible position is the same one vets take with most parasites: know the signs, check when there is a reason to, and call early rather than late.

Veterinarian talking with a dog owner in a clinic while holding a small dog — Call the vet early rather than late. The maggots feed on living tissue while you wait. (Photo: Pexels)

Common Questions

Can my cat catch screwworm from another animal? Not directly in the way an infection spreads. The fly lays eggs in a wound or body opening, so the route in is the wound, not contact with another animal.

Does my pet need an open wound to be at risk? A wound is the usual route, but USDA specifically lists body openings too: eyes, ears, nose, mouth and genitals. Intact skin is not an invitation, but those openings are.

What does an egg mass look like? Small clusters of white or cream coloured grains, usually at the edge of a wound or opening rather than deep inside it.

Is there a vaccine or a preventative I can buy? No. Prevention is wound care, checking your pet, and following the travel rules if you cross a border.

Can people get it? Yes, though it is uncommon. Contact your healthcare provider straight away if you suspect it.

The Bottom Line

New World screwworm is in the United States, one dog has been confirmed, and the signs are specific enough to learn in a couple of minutes. Maggots or white egg masses, a smell of decay, or a pet in obvious pain that has stopped eating and taken itself away from everyone. Any of those means a call to your vet today, not tomorrow.

For current case numbers, check USDA’s live dashboard rather than a news story, and read the CDC situation summary if you want the public health picture.

This article is general information for pet owners, not veterinary advice. If you think your dog or cat may be affected, contact your veterinarian, your State veterinarian’s office or USDA straight away.

Why Do Dogs Eat Grass? 8 Real Reasons (And the Vomiting Myth)

Dogs

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26th September 2026

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Why Do Dogs Eat Grass? 8 Real Reasons (And the Vomiting Myth)

You’re halfway across the park and your dog stops dead, drops its head, and starts cropping grass like a sheep. Why do dogs eat grass? The old answer, “he’s making himself sick”, is almost certainly wrong. When researchers actually watched what dogs do, fewer than one in four showed any sign of illness beforehand, and most never vomited at all.

Grass eating is one of the most normal things a dog does. This guide covers how common it really is, the eight genuine reasons behind it, the vomiting myth in full, the handful of situations where it is dangerous, and what to do if your dog does it obsessively.

The Short Answer

For the great majority of dogs, eating grass is ordinary canine behaviour, a mix of instinct, boredom, taste and texture. It is not usually a sign of illness, a nutritional gap, or a dog “self-medicating”. It only becomes a concern when it is sudden, frantic, constant, or paired with other symptoms.

Small white dog standing on a bright green lawn — A dog on a treated lawn: the grass is harmless, what is sprayed on it may not be. (Photo: Pexels)

How Normal Is It? Very

Surveys of dog owners put the figure at roughly four dogs in five eating plants at least occasionally, with grass by far the most common choice. Younger dogs do it more than older ones. Wild relatives do it too: wolves, coyotes and foxes all have plant matter turning up in their droppings, which tells you this predates kibble by a very long way.

In other words: if your dog grazes now and then, eats normally, and is otherwise well, you are looking at a dog being a dog.

8 Reasons Dogs Eat Grass

1. It’s instinct

Dogs are scavenging omnivores, not pure carnivores. Their ancestors ate whole prey, stomach contents included, plus fruit, roots and greenery when meat was scarce. The urge to sample plants never went away.

2. They like it

The least glamorous explanation and probably the most common. Fresh spring grass is sweet, wet and crunchy. Plenty of dogs are simply picky about which grass they eat, which is a strong hint that taste and texture are driving it rather than distress.

3. Boredom

An under-stimulated dog in a garden will find a job to do, and grazing is an easy one. If the grass eating happens mostly when your dog is alone, bored, or waiting around, that’s your answer. The same restlessness often shows up as pacing, digging, or shadowing you from room to room. See why your dog follows you everywhere.

4. Attention

If eating grass reliably makes you turn round, walk over and say the dog’s name, it has been trained, by you, accidentally. Dogs repeat whatever gets a reaction.

Brown dog sitting in long green grass outdoors — Grazing that only happens when your dog is bored or alone is a boredom problem, not a stomach one. (Photo: Pexels)

5. Fibre

Grass is roughage. Some dogs on low-fibre diets, or with mild constipation or sluggish digestion, appear to seek it out. This is a real but minor effect, a dog on a decent complete diet is not fibre-starved.

6. Nausea or an upset stomach

A genuinely nauseous dog may eat grass, and a small number vomit afterwards. The important part is the direction of cause: illness can prompt grass eating, but grass eating is rarely evidence of illness. Watch for the rest of the picture: lip licking, drooling, swallowing repeatedly, a hunched posture, refusing food.

7. Anxiety and stress

Some dogs graze the way people bite their nails, a self-soothing, repetitive habit that surfaces during thunderstorms, fireworks, separation, or upheaval at home. Anxious grass eating usually comes packaged with other signs: panting with no heat or exercise to explain it (more on that here), trembling, yawning, pacing or clinginess.

8. Hunger or meal timing

Dogs on one meal a day, or on a restricted diet, sometimes graze more, particularly in the long gap before breakfast. Splitting the same daily ration into two meals often quietly ends it.

The Vomiting Myth, Properly Examined

The belief that dogs eat grass to induce vomiting is the most repeated claim on this subject and the least supported. When behaviour researchers at the University of California, Davis surveyed hundreds of owners and watched dogs directly, the pattern was clear:

Only about one dog in ten showed signs of illness before eating grass.
Fewer than one in four vomited afterwards, and the same dogs tended to be the ones that did.
The overwhelming majority ate grass, carried on with their day, and vomited nothing at all.

A more sensible reading: dogs eat grass because they want to. Occasionally a mouthful of coarse blades tickles the stomach on the way down and something comes back up. That’s a side effect, not a plan.

Black and white dog lying in a lush green field of long grass — Most dogs eat grass, carry on with their day, and vomit nothing at all. (Photo: Pexels)

When Grass Eating IS a Problem

The grass itself is harmless. What’s on it, or around it, may not be.

Pesticides, herbicides and fertiliser. Treated lawns, verges and parks are the single biggest risk. Keep your dog off recently treated ground. Check for the little warning flags, and rinse paws and muzzle after.
Slug pellets. Metaldehyde is rapidly and often fatally toxic. Tremors or seizures after garden access is a 999-level emergency.
Lungworm and intestinal parasites. Grass carries slug and snail slime trails, which carry lungworm larvae. Lungworm can cause coughing, unexplained bruising and bleeding that won’t stop. Stay on top of worming.
Toxic plants mixed in with the grass. Daffodil and tulip bulbs, foxglove, yew, oleander, sago palm, autumn crocus, lily of the valley, and for cats, all true lilies. Dogs grazing indiscriminately can get a mouthful of the wrong thing.
Grass awns (foxtails). Barbed seed heads in dry summer grass. They burrow into paws, ears, noses and throats and travel inward. Swelling between the toes, violent head shaking or relentless sneezing after a walk needs a vet.
Pica. Compulsive eating of non-food items: soil, stones, fabric, plastic. That’s a different problem from grazing and warrants a proper veterinary work-up.

When to Call the Vet

Grass eating that starts suddenly and is frantic or non-stop
Repeated vomiting, or vomiting with blood
Diarrhoea, or no appetite for 24 hours
Lethargy, hiding, or a dog that just isn’t itself
Straining to poo, or no poo at all
A swollen, hard or painful belly, with unproductive retching this is a bloat emergency, go now
Known access to a treated lawn, slug pellets or a toxic plant
Tremors, wobbliness or seizures: emergency

Worth having to hand: if your dog eats something it shouldn’t, don’t try to induce vomiting yourself without veterinary advice. For chocolate specifically, see our guide on what to do.

Close-up of a dog’s paws standing on a green grass lawn — Dry summer grass hides foxtails. Check between the toes after a walk. (Photo: Pexels)

How to Cut Down the Grazing

You don’t need to stop it entirely. Normal grazing is fine. If it’s excessive, work through these:

Rule out the medical side first. A vet check, a faecal test and up-to-date worming, especially if the habit is new.
Split meals. Two or three smaller meals instead of one, so the fasting gap shrinks.
Add safe greens. Small amounts of steamed green beans, broccoli or carrot give the same crunch and fibre. Never onion, garlic, grapes or raisins.
Grow dog grass. A pot of untreated wheatgrass or oat grass indoors gives a safe outlet and keeps them off the park.
Exercise the brain, not just the legs. Sniffing walks, scatter feeding, snuffle mats, puzzle feeders and chews. Boredom grazing dissolves when there’s a better job available.
Teach “leave it” and pay well. A reliable “leave it” plus a high-value treat beats pulling on the lead every time.
Stop rewarding it. No eye contact, no chasing, no commentary. Redirect calmly and move on.
Keep your own lawn untreated: or check the interval on the label before letting the dog out.

Weimaraner lying on grass chewing a stick — Give the mouth a better job to do and boredom grazing tends to fade. (Photo: Pexels)

Common Questions

Is grass actually bad for dogs? Plain, untreated grass is harmless in normal amounts. The chemicals, parasites and seed heads it carries are the real risk.

My dog eats grass and then vomits every time. That’s not typical. Get a vet check. Persistent vomiting points to something else going on.

Does it mean the diet is wrong? Usually no. Dogs on complete, balanced food graze just as much as any other. If you’re already suspicious about the food, raise it with your vet rather than switching on a hunch.

Puppies do it constantly, normal? Largely yes; puppies explore with their mouths. Supervise closely, because they’re also the ones most likely to swallow something they shouldn’t.

Should I punish it? No. Punishment tends to produce a dog that eats grass faster and further away from you, which is worse.

The Bottom Line

Grass eating is normal, widespread, and in most dogs means nothing more alarming than “I fancied some grass”. The myth about self-induced vomiting doesn’t survive contact with the evidence. Keep an eye on where your dog grazes rather than whether it grazes, and treat any sudden, frantic change in the habit as a reason to ring the vet rather than to worry about the lawn.

Why Does My Cat Meow So Much? 10 Reasons and How to Quieten It

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24th September 2026

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Some cats barely make a sound. Others narrate the entire day, at the food bowl, at the door, at 4 a.m., at absolutely nothing. Why does my cat meow so much? Here’s the fact that surprises most owners: adult cats almost never meow at other cats. Meowing is a language cats developed specifically for humans, and if yours is doing it constantly, it’s because at some point it worked.

This guide covers the ten reasons cats meow, what the different sounds actually mean, why some breeds never shut up, when excessive meowing is a medical warning sign, and how to quieten a vocal cat without making things worse.

Cats Meow at People, Not at Each Other

Kittens meow to their mother when they’re cold, hungry or lost. Adult cats drop it almost entirely when communicating with other cats. They use scent, body language, and the occasional growl or yowl instead. But with humans, they kept the meow, and then refined it: research suggests domestic cats have adapted their meows to be more urgent-sounding and more pleasant to the human ear than wildcat calls. Your cat is, quite literally, talking to you in a language it invented for you.

10 Reasons Cats Meow

1. “Feed me”

The most common reason by a mile. Cats learn the exact sequence that produces food, the alarm going off, the kettle boiling, you standing up, and vocalise on cue. If your cat meows loudest at 6 a.m., you have a feeding-schedule problem, not a behaviour problem.

2. Greeting

Many cats meow every time you walk in, get up, or come back from another room. It’s the feline equivalent of “oh, hello, you exist”. Nothing needs fixing here.

Tabby cat meowing on a wooden floor indoors, meowing is a language cats developed for humans — Adult cats rarely meow at each other. The meow is aimed squarely at you. (Photo: Pexels)

3. Attention and company

Play, stroking, or simply being noticed. Cats that are alone all day often become much more vocal in the evening. Ignoring it works only if you’re consistent. Intermittent attention is the most powerful reinforcement there is.

4. “Open this door”

Closed doors are an affront. The meow at a door is a demand, and if opening it has ever worked, it’s now a trained behaviour.

5. Stress, change and anxiety

House moves, new pets, a new baby, building work, a change in your hours. Anxious meowing often comes with hiding, over-grooming, or litter tray problems. See 8 signs your cat is stressed.

6. Pain or illness

A normally quiet cat that becomes vocal needs a vet. Cats in pain often meow at odd times, sound different (lower, drawn-out), or cry when picked up, using the litter tray, or jumping. Straining and crying in the tray is an emergency: see our guide to litter tray problems.

7. Hyperthyroidism

Very common in cats over 10 and a classic cause of sudden loud, night-time yowling. The pattern to spot: eating more but losing weight, drinking more, restlessness, a scruffy coat, sometimes vomiting. It’s diagnosed with a simple blood test and is very treatable. Don’t write this off as “just old age”.

Cat eating from a bowl, increased appetite with weight loss can signal hyperthyroidism — Eating more but getting thinner, plus new yowling? Ask your vet for a thyroid test. (Photo: Pexels)

8. Old age and cognitive decline

Senior cats yowl at night for several reasons: fading eyesight and hearing, disorientation from feline cognitive dysfunction (feline dementia), high blood pressure, or simply confusion in a dark, quiet house. Night lights, a predictable routine and keeping food, water and a tray close by all help, and a vet check is essential, because the treatable causes (thyroid, blood pressure, pain) look identical.

9. Mating behaviour

An unspayed female in season yowls loudly and repeatedly, rolls, and becomes very affectionate; unneutered males yowl at and spray near doors and windows, especially at night. Neutering resolves it in the vast majority of cases, and prevents a great many other problems.

10. Breed and personality

Some cats are simply chatty. Siamese, Oriental, Bengal, Burmese, Tonkinese and Sphynx are famously talkative, a Siamese can and will hold a conversation. If your cat has always been vocal and is otherwise well, that’s personality, not a problem.

What the Different Sounds Mean

Short, high meow: hello / standard greeting
Multiple short meows: excitement, “where have you been”
Drawn-out mrrrooow: a demand: food, door, attention
Low-pitched, long meow: complaint or displeasure
High-pitched, sharp yelp: pain or fright (you stood on a tail)
Chirps and trills: happy, sociable, “follow me” (mother-to-kitten talk)
Chattering at a window: frustrated hunting excitement at birds
Yowling or howling: mating, distress, disorientation, or illness, the one to take seriously
Growl or hiss: back off, now

Ginger tabby cat meowing outdoors with its mouth open, different meows mean different things — A drawn-out “mrrroooow” is a demand. A yowl is something else entirely. (Photo: Pexels)

When Meowing Means “See the Vet”

A quiet cat that suddenly becomes vocal
Night-time yowling in a cat over 10 (thyroid, blood pressure, dementia, pain)
Meowing plus weight loss, increased appetite, or increased drinking
Crying in or beside the litter tray, or straining: emergency
Vocalising when touched, picked up or jumping
Meowing with vomiting, hiding, or a change in appetite
Disorientation, staring at walls, or pacing at night

How to Reduce Excessive Meowing

Vet first if anything has changed. New or increased vocalising is a medical question until proven otherwise.
Never reward the meow. Feeding, opening the door or picking the cat up while it’s meowing teaches it that meowing works. Wait for a few seconds of quiet, then respond. That’s what you’re reinforcing.
Fix the 5 a.m. alarm call with a timed feeder. The single most effective change for morning yowlers: the machine feeds them, not you, so waking you stops paying.
Play properly, twice a day. Two 10 to 15 minute wand-toy sessions ending in a meal follow the natural hunt-eat-groom-sleep cycle and settle cats for hours.
Enrich the environment. Cat trees, window perches, puzzle feeders, hiding spots. A bored cat is a loud cat.
Keep routines predictable. Same feeding times, same play times. Cats vocalise more when they can’t anticipate what happens next.
Neuter. If mating calls are the cause, this is the fix.
Help senior cats at night: night lights, a warm bed near you, litter tray and water upstairs, and treatment for any underlying condition.
Never punish. Shouting, squirting water or shutting the cat out increases stress and usually increases the noise. It also damages trust.

Expect an “extinction burst”. When you first stop rewarding the meow, it gets louder before it gets better. Hold the line for a week or two and most cats give it up.

Senior cat resting quietly indoors, night-time yowling in older cats needs a vet check — New night-time yowling in an older cat is a vet question, not a personality change. (Photo: Pexels)

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my cat meow at night?

Boredom and pent-up energy in young cats; hunger; mating behaviour in unneutered cats; and in cats over 10, hyperthyroidism, high blood pressure, pain or cognitive decline. Play and feed late in the evening, and get an older cat checked.

Why does my cat meow constantly for food when it’s already been fed?

Either it has learned that meowing produces food, or it’s genuinely hungrier than usual, which can point to hyperthyroidism, diabetes or parasites. Check the portion sizes against our cat feeding guide, then see the vet if the appetite is genuinely increased.

Should I ignore my cat when it meows?

Ignore the demand meows, once you’re sure the cat’s needs are met and it’s healthy, and respond the moment it’s quiet. Never ignore a new, distressed or painful-sounding vocalisation.

Why is my cat meowing more as it gets older?

Most often hyperthyroidism, high blood pressure, arthritis pain, failing senses, or feline dementia. All of these are manageable, so it’s worth a proper senior check-up rather than accepting it.

Do some cat breeds meow more than others?

Yes. Siamese, Oriental Shorthair, Bengal, Burmese, Tonkinese and Sphynx are the chattiest; Persians, British Shorthairs, Ragdolls and Russian Blues tend to be quiet.

Why does my cat meow silently?

The “silent meow” is usually a real meow pitched too high for human hearing, or a very soft one used deliberately with people. It’s affectionate and completely normal.

Calico cat meowing with its mouth open outdoors, some cats are simply chattier than others — Siamese, Bengals and Orientals are famously talkative, with those, it’s personality. (Photo: Pexels)

Final Thoughts

So, why does my cat meow so much? Because meowing is the one language your cat invented purely for you, and because, somewhere along the line, it worked. Most of the time it’s food, attention or a closed door, all of which respond to routine, play and a timed feeder. But a sudden change in how much or how a cat vocalises is a health signal, especially over the age of 10. For more on understanding your cat, read why do cats purr? and why cats knead.

Why Is My Dog Scratching So Much? 9 Causes and What Actually Helps

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24th September 2026

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Why Is My Dog Scratching So Much? 9 Causes and What Actually Helps

Scratch. Chew. Lick. Scratch again. If the soundtrack to your evenings is a dog going at its own skin, often just as you sit down to watch something, you’re not alone. Why is my dog scratching so much? Itching is the single most common reason dogs are taken to the vet, and while fleas are the obvious suspect, they’re only one of nine likely causes.

This guide covers all nine, how to tell them apart at home, the checks to do tonight, when itching becomes a vet visit, and what actually works, including why the “just give it an oatmeal bath” advice only gets you so far.

9 Reasons Your Dog Is Scratching

1. Fleas, still the number-one cause

You rarely see the fleas; you see the evidence. A single flea bite can set off flea allergy dermatitis in a sensitive dog, and one flea bite is enough to keep a dog scratching for days. The classic pattern is scratching and chewing at the base of the tail, rump and back legs.

Check tonight: stand your dog on a white towel and brush briskly along the back and tail base. If black specks fall out, wet them. If they turn rusty red, that’s flea dirt (digested blood), which means fleas, even if you never spot one. Our full guide covers getting rid of fleas on dogs properly, including the 95% of the flea life cycle that lives in your carpet rather than on your dog.

2. Environmental allergies (atopy)

Pollen, grass, dust mites, mould. Dogs don’t sneeze the way we do. They itch. Atopic dermatitis usually starts between one and three years old, and the tell-tale spots are paws, face, ears, armpits, groin and belly. Seasonal itching that gets worse in spring and summer points strongly this way; year-round itching suggests dust mites or food.

Golden retriever scratching itself in a green meadow, grass and pollen allergies are a leading cause of itching — Seasonal itching that flares in spring and summer usually means environmental allergies. (Photo: Pexels)

3. Food allergy or intolerance

Less common than people assume, roughly 10% of allergy cases, but real. The usual culprits are proteins the dog has eaten for a long time: beef, chicken, dairy, wheat, lamb. Suspect food if the itching is year-round, focused on the ears and rear end, and comes with digestive signs (loose stools, wind, frequent poos). The only reliable test is an 8 to 12 week elimination diet prescribed by your vet. Blood and saliva “allergy tests” sold online are not reliable for food allergy.

4. Dry skin

Central heating in winter, low humidity, over-bathing, or a diet short on essential fatty acids. You’ll see flaky white scurf, and the scratching is generalised rather than focused on one area. Bathing more often makes it worse, not better.

5. Mites and mange

Sarcoptic mange (scabies) causes intense, frantic itching, often the worst you’ll see, with hair loss on ear margins, elbows and hocks, and it’s contagious to humans. Demodex causes patchy hair loss with less itching, usually in puppies or immune-compromised dogs. Ear mites cause head shaking and dark, crumbly ear wax. All need a vet diagnosis (a skin scrape) and prescription treatment.

6. Skin infections

Bacterial (pyoderma) and yeast (Malassezia) infections are usually secondary. The dog itches for another reason, breaks the skin, and infection moves in. Signs: a musty or “corn chip” smell, greasy or crusty patches, red bumps or pustules, thickened dark skin in skin folds, brown-stained fur from licking. Very common in ears and paws.

Close-up of a puppy licking and chewing its paw, constant paw licking usually signals allergies or infection — Constant paw licking that stains the fur rust-brown is a classic allergy-plus-yeast pattern. (Photo: Pexels)

7. Contact irritants

New shampoo, carpet cleaner, lawn treatment, a wool bed, plastic bowls. Contact reactions show up on the thin-haired bits that touch the surface: belly, groin, chin, paws.

8. Boredom, anxiety and habit

Dogs also scratch and lick for the same reason people bite their nails. Acral lick granuloma: a raw, thickened patch usually on a front leg, often starts this way, though pain or allergy underneath is common too. Suspect behaviour if the licking happens when the dog is left alone, under-exercised, or bored, and stops when it’s occupied.

9. Pain and other medical causes

Arthritis, an anal gland problem (scooting and tail-base chewing), hypothyroidism (dull coat, weight gain, recurring skin infections) and, rarely, skin cancers can all show up as licking or scratching one area.

Where Your Dog Scratches Tells You a Lot

Tail base and rump: fleas, flea allergy, anal glands
Paws (licking, chewing, rust-stained fur): environmental allergy, yeast infection
Ears (head shaking, smell, dark wax): allergy, ear infection, ear mites
Face and muzzle rubbing: allergy, contact irritation
Belly, armpits and groin: atopy, contact irritant
All over, with flaky skin: dry skin, mange, systemic issues
One fixed spot, obsessively: pain, hot spot, lick granuloma

Dalmatian sitting on grass and scratching, the spot a dog scratches narrows down the cause — Note *where* the scratching happens before you ring the vet. It narrows the list fast. (Photo: Pexels)

When to See the Vet

Book an appointment if you see any of these:

Broken skin, open sores, scabs or bleeding
A hot spot, a wet, red, rapidly spreading patch (these can double in size in hours)
Hair loss, bald patches or thickened, darkened skin
A bad smell from the skin or ears
Head shaking, or ears that are hot, red or gunky
Scratching that stops your dog sleeping, or is getting steadily worse
Itching plus lethargy, weight change, digestive upset or drinking more
Sudden, frantic, whole-body itching (possible sarcoptic mange or an allergic reaction)

Itching that has gone on more than a couple of weeks won’t fix itself, and the longer a dog scratches, the more likely a secondary infection is to set in and make everything worse.

What Actually Helps

Treat fleas properly first, all pets, every month. Use a vet-recommended product on every animal in the house, year-round, plus a household spray and hot-washing of bedding. Shop flea collars and cheap spot-ons are a common reason treatment “doesn’t work”.
Bathe correctly. A soothing oatmeal or vet-prescribed medicated shampoo can help, but leave it on for 10 minutes before rinsing, use lukewarm water, and don’t bathe more than weekly unless your vet says so.
Rinse the paws after walks in pollen season. A simple wipe-down removes a surprising amount of allergen.
Omega-3 fatty acids. Fish-oil supplements improve coat and skin barrier function over 6 to 12 weeks. Ask your vet for the right dose by weight.
Vacuum and wash bedding weekly: hot wash, 60°C, for fleas and dust mites.
Enrichment for the behavioural itchers: longer sniff walks, puzzle feeders, chews.
Prescription treatment where needed. Modern anti-itch medications (such as oclacitinib or the monoclonal-antibody injection lokivetmab) work far better and far more safely than long-term steroids for allergic dogs, and your vet can also treat any infection underneath. Never give human antihistamines or painkillers without veterinary advice. Ibuprofen and paracetamol are toxic to dogs.

Dog being bathed and groomed in a salon, correct bathing helps, over-bathing makes dry skin worse — Medicated shampoo needs 10 minutes of contact time to do anything. Most owners rinse too soon. (Photo: Pexels)

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my dog scratching but has no fleas?

Allergies (environmental or food) are the most likely answer, followed by dry skin, mites and secondary infections. Also bear in mind you rarely see fleas. Check for flea dirt with the white-towel test before ruling them out.

Why does my dog scratch so much at night?

Partly because the house is quiet and there’s nothing else to do, so you notice it more; partly because allergens settle in bedding, and partly because itching genuinely worsens when a dog is still and warm. Persistent night scratching is worth investigating.

Can I give my dog Piriton (antihistamine) for itching?

Some vets do recommend antihistamines for mild cases, but they help fewer than a third of allergic dogs and the dose must be set by weight. Ask your vet first. Never guess, and never use combination human products (many contain decongestants or paracetamol, which are dangerous for dogs).

What can I put on my dog’s itchy skin at home?

A colloidal oatmeal shampoo, a cool compress on a localised itchy patch, and coconut oil on dry noses/paw pads are safe first steps. Avoid tea tree oil (toxic to dogs), vinegar on broken skin, and human creams containing steroids unless prescribed.

Is my dog’s itching seasonal or food-related?

Seasonal, spring/summer-worse itching points to pollen; year-round itching, especially with ear infections and digestive signs, points to food. A vet-run elimination diet is the only way to be sure.

How long should I wait before seeing a vet?

If itching is mild and you’ve just treated for fleas, give it two weeks. Go sooner for broken skin, a spreading sore, a smell, ear involvement, or a dog that can’t settle.

Black puppy scratching outdoors in the sun, persistent scratching deserves a vet check — Itching that lasts more than a fortnight rarely resolves on its own. (Photo: Pexels)

Final Thoughts

So, why is my dog scratching so much? Start with fleas, properly, on every pet in the house, then look at where the scratching happens, because the location narrows it to allergy, infection, mites or habit faster than anything else. Persistent itching is treatable, and modern allergy medication has transformed what’s possible; the only wrong move is letting a dog scratch for months while the skin breaks down. For more on keeping your dog comfortable, read why dogs pant so much and why your dog licks you.

One more reason to take open, raw skin seriously: parasites use broken skin as a way in. If you are in Texas or New Mexico, or you travel with your dog, it is worth knowing the signs of screwworm in dogs and cats and where on your pet to check.

Why Is My Cat Peeing Outside the Litter Box? 8 Reasons and How to Fix It

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23rd September 2026

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Why Is My Cat Peeing Outside the Litter Box? 8 Reasons and How to Fix It

You find a damp patch on the rug. Then the bathmat. Then, one memorable morning, your bed. Why is my cat peeing outside the litter box? It’s the single most common behaviour complaint cat owners have, and the most important thing to know up front is this: your cat isn’t doing it out of spite. Cats don’t do revenge. Something is wrong, and it’s usually either medical, the litter tray itself, or stress.

This guide covers the eight real reasons, how to tell peeing from spraying (they mean different things), the litter-tray rules most owners break, how to clean up so they don’t go back, and when it’s a same-day vet trip.

First: Rule Out a Medical Problem

Around a third of cats that stop using the tray have a medical cause, so this is step one, not step five. Common culprits:

Cystitis / FIC (feline idiopathic cystitis): painful bladder inflammation, often stress-related. The cat associates the tray with pain and goes elsewhere.
Urinary crystals, stones or a blockage
Urinary tract infection
Kidney disease, diabetes or hyperthyroidism: all make cats drink and wee far more, so the tray fills up faster than they can cope with
Arthritis: an older cat may simply not be able to climb into a high-sided tray or get downstairs to it in time

⚠️ Emergency: a cat, especially a male, that is straining, going in and out of the tray, producing little or no urine, crying, licking its rear repeatedly or hiding is a blocked bladder until proven otherwise. This is fatal within 24 to 48 hours. Go to a vet immediately, day or night.

Veterinarian examining a cat with a stethoscope in a clinic, rule out medical causes first — Roughly a third of cases are medical. Vet first, behaviour second. (Photo: Pexels)

Peeing vs Spraying: They’re Not the Same

Peeing (inappropriate urination): the cat squats, empties its bladder, usually on a horizontal surface: rugs, beds, laundry, sofas. This is a toileting problem.
Spraying (marking): the cat stands, tail upright and quivering, and squirts a small amount backwards onto a vertical surface: walls, door frames, curtains, speakers. This is communication, usually about territory, and it’s most common in unneutered cats and multi-cat homes.

The fix is different for each, so work out which one you’re dealing with before you change anything.

8 Reasons Cats Stop Using the Litter Box

1. The tray isn’t clean enough

The number-one non-medical cause. Cats have a sense of smell roughly 14 times better than ours. A tray that seems “fine” to you can be unusable to them. Scoop at least once a day, though twice is better, and fully wash and refill weekly.

2. There aren’t enough trays

The rule is one tray per cat, plus one spare, on every floor of the house. Two cats need three trays. Cats won’t reliably share, and one cat can block another’s access without you noticing.

3. The tray is in the wrong place

Next to the washing machine, in a busy hallway, beside the cat flap, or right next to food and water, all common mistakes. Cats want somewhere quiet, private, easy to reach, with an escape route, and well away from where they eat.

Cat stepping out of a litter box beside a plant in a home, tray placement matters as much as cleanliness — Quiet, private, easy to reach, and never next to the food bowl. (Photo: Pexels)

4. Wrong litter, wrong tray

Most cats prefer a fine-grained, unscented, clumping litter at a depth of about 3 to 4 cm. Scented litters and deodorising crystals are for humans, not cats. Trays should be big, about 1.5 times the length of your cat, and many cats dislike hoods and liners. If you changed litter brand recently and the problem started, that’s your answer.

5. Stress and change

House moves, building work, a new baby, a new partner, a new pet, a change in your working hours, even rearranged furniture. Stress is also the main trigger for cystitis, so it can cause the problem twice over. Our guide to the signs your cat is stressed covers what else to look for.

6. Conflict with other cats, inside or outside

A neighbourhood cat staring through the window, or a housemate cat guarding the hallway, is enough to stop a cat using a tray. In multi-cat homes, spread resources out: trays, food, water and beds in separate locations, not all in one room.

7. A bad association with the tray

If a cat was in pain while weeing, was ambushed in the tray, or got startled by a noisy appliance beside it, it can decide the tray itself is the problem, and pick a soft, absorbent spot instead (which is why beds, laundry piles and rugs are such frequent targets).

8. Kittens, seniors and unneutered cats

Kittens need trays with low sides and lots of them while they learn. Elderly or arthritic cats need a low entry and a tray on every floor. Unneutered cats of both sexes spray far more. Neutering resolves it in the large majority of cases.

Cat lying on a carpet indoors, soft absorbent surfaces are the most common targets — Rugs, beds and laundry get chosen because they’re soft, absorbent and smell of you. (Photo: Pexels)

How to Fix It: The Step-by-Step Plan

Vet first. Urine sample if you can (non-absorbent litter makes this easy). Rule out infection, crystals, kidney disease, diabetes and arthritis.
Add trays. One per cat plus one, on every floor. It’s the cheapest fix and often the only one needed.
Clean more often. Scoop twice daily; wash weekly with unscented soap and warm water. Never bleach or ammonia-based cleaners (ammonia smells like urine to a cat).
Offer a choice. Put two trays side by side with different litters, one hooded and one open. Let the cat vote.
Move the tray, or use the accident spot. If the cat keeps going in one place, put a tray there for a while, then move it a few centimetres a day once it’s being used.
Clean accidents with an enzymatic cleaner. Ordinary detergents leave scent markers only the cat can smell, which invites a repeat. Never use bleach or ammonia.
Make the old spot unattractive. Once properly cleaned, place a food bowl, a bed or a plastic mat there, because cats avoid toileting where they eat and sleep.
Reduce stress. Pheromone diffusers, more vertical space and hiding places, predictable routines, play sessions, and blocking the view of outdoor cats.
Never punish. Shouting, rubbing the cat’s nose in it or shutting it in a room makes stress worse, and stress is often the cause. It has no idea what you’re angry about.

Most cases resolve within a few weeks once the medical side is cleared and the tray set-up is right. If it doesn’t, ask your vet to refer you to a qualified feline behaviourist.

Two cats resting together indoors, in multi-cat homes, spread trays and resources across the house — Multi-cat homes need resources spread out, not clustered in one room. (Photo: Pexels)

Frequently Asked Questions

Is my cat peeing outside the litter box out of spite?

No. Cats don’t plan revenge. They don’t have the cognitive machinery for it. What looks like spite is almost always pain, stress or an unacceptable tray.

Why is my cat peeing on my bed?

Beds are soft, absorbent, elevated (so they feel safe) and saturated with your scent. Anxious cats often choose them, and so do cats with cystitis. Treat it as a medical check first, then a stress and tray-access problem.

Why has my cat suddenly started weeing everywhere?

“Suddenly” points hard at a medical cause or an abrupt change in the household. Book a vet appointment and think about what changed in the last few weeks.

Does neutering stop spraying?

It stops or greatly reduces it in most cats, around 90% of males stop spraying after neutering, and the sooner it’s done, the more likely it is to resolve completely.

What’s the best cleaner for cat urine?

An enzymatic pet-urine cleaner that breaks down the uric acid. Avoid bleach and anything ammonia-based, which smells like urine to a cat and encourages repeats.

Should I shut my cat in a room with the litter tray?

Short-term confinement to a small, comfortable room with a tray can help “re-teach” tray use after the medical causes are ruled out, but it must be done kindly, with company, food, water and beds, and it isn’t a punishment.

Cat resting calmly in a pet bed indoors, a settled, secure cat uses its tray reliably — Fix the health, the tray and the stress, and normal service usually resumes within weeks. (Photo: Pexels)

Final Thoughts

So, why is my cat peeing outside the litter box? Because it’s in pain, because the tray doesn’t meet its standards, or because something in its world has changed. None of those are spite, and all of them are fixable. Start with the vet, then add trays and clean them more often than feels necessary. That combination solves the large majority of cases. For more on reading your cat, see 8 signs your cat is stressed and how much you should be feeding your cat.

Why Is My Dog Panting So Much? 9 Reasons and When It’s an Emergency

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23rd September 2026

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Why Is My Dog Panting So Much? 9 Reasons and When It’s an Emergency

Your dog is lying on the kitchen floor, tongue out, chest going like a pair of bellows, and it hasn’t moved in an hour. Why is my dog panting so much? Panting is how dogs sweat, so most of the time it’s completely normal. But panting is also one of the first signs of heatstroke, pain, poisoning and heart trouble, and knowing which is which can genuinely save your dog’s life.

This guide explains how panting actually works, the nine reasons dogs pant, what counts as “too much”, the red flags that mean a vet now, and exactly what to do if you suspect heatstroke.

Why Dogs Pant in the First Place

Dogs have very few sweat glands, just a handful in their paw pads and nose. They cool themselves almost entirely by panting: fast, shallow breaths that evaporate moisture from the tongue, mouth and upper airway, taking heat with it. A resting dog breathes about 15 to 35 times a minute. A panting dog can hit 300 to 400 breaths a minute, and that’s normal as long as it settles once the dog cools down or calms down.

9 Reasons Why Your Dog Is Panting

1. Heat, the everyday reason

Warm weather, a hot car, a sunny room, a thick coat. Panting is the cooling system doing its job. It should slow within 10 to 30 minutes once the dog is somewhere cooler with water.

2. Exercise and excitement

After a run, a game or a visitor arriving, panting is just recovery. Excited panting often comes with a loose, wiggly body and a “smiling” open mouth.

Golden retriever panting happily on a walk in the park, normal panting after exercise — Normal panting settles within 10 to 30 minutes of stopping. (Photo: Pexels)

3. Stress, fear and anxiety

Fireworks, car journeys, the vet’s waiting room, being left alone. Stress panting usually comes with other signals: pacing, yawning, lip-licking, whale eye (whites showing), flattened ears, trembling, or refusing food. It stops when the trigger does.

4. Pain

This one catches owners out. Dogs rarely cry when hurt. They pant. Heavy panting with no heat and no exercise, especially at night or when lying down, is a classic pain signal. Look for a hunched posture, reluctance to jump or climb stairs, licking one spot, or a hard, bloated belly (see red flags below).

5. Heatstroke

The emergency. Frantic, non-stop panting that doesn’t slow in the shade, bright red or blue-tinged gums, thick drool, wobbling, vomiting or collapse. Dogs die of this every summer. Flat-faced breeds (Bulldogs, Pugs, Frenchies, Boxers), overweight dogs, thick-coated breeds, puppies and seniors are at highest risk, and it doesn’t need to be a heatwave. A warm car reaches lethal temperatures in minutes.

6. Breathing and airway problems

Brachycephalic (flat-faced) dogs pant more because their airways are narrower, but noisy, snorting, constant panting isn’t “just how the breed is” and often needs veterinary assessment. Laryngeal paralysis, common in older Labradors, causes a raspy, honking pant. Kennel cough, pneumonia and collapsing trachea also show up as laboured panting.

Dog drinking from a water bowl outdoors, fresh water and shade are the first response to heat panting — Shade, airflow and cool water first, then watch whether the panting slows. (Photo: Pexels)

7. Heart disease and anaemia

If the heart can’t circulate blood properly, or there aren’t enough red cells to carry oxygen, dogs pant to compensate. Look for panting plus coughing (especially at night), tiring quickly on walks, a swollen belly, or pale gums.

8. Medication and Cushing’s disease

Steroids (prednisolone) cause noticeably heavier panting and thirst. So does Cushing’s disease, which is one of the most commonly missed causes of excessive panting in middle-aged and older dogs. The giveaway combination is panting, drinking and weeing a lot more, a pot-bellied look, thinning coat and increased appetite.

9. Age and cognitive decline

Older dogs pant more: less efficient temperature control, arthritis pain, and in some, canine cognitive dysfunction causing night-time restlessness and panting.

How Much Panting Is Too Much?

Ask yourself these four questions:

Is there a reason? Heat, exercise or excitement explains it. Nothing at all doesn’t.
Does it stop? Normal panting eases within 10 to 30 minutes of rest, shade and water.
Has it changed? Panting that’s new, heavier or happening at rest and overnight matters more than panting that’s always been there.
What else is going on? Panting plus any other symptom moves it up the urgency scale.

Dog lying and panting on a cool tiled floor indoors, panting at rest with no obvious cause is worth investigating — Heavy panting at rest, with no heat and no exercise, is the version to take seriously. (Photo: Pexels)

Red Flags: Call the Vet Immediately

Treat any of these as an emergency:

Gums that are bright red, brick red, pale, white, blue or purple (healthy gums are bubblegum pink and moist)
Panting that won’t slow down even in a cool room
Noisy, raspy or honking breathing; stretching the neck out to breathe; elbows held away from the body
Drooling thick, ropey saliva; vomiting or diarrhoea in the heat
Wobbling, confusion, collapse or seizures
A hard, swollen or bloated belly with unproductive retching (possible bloat/GDV: life-threatening within hours)
Panting after possible poisoning (chocolate, xylitol, antifreeze, slug pellets, some plants). See our guide on chocolate toxicity in dogs
Any panting in a dog that also has a known heart condition

Suspected Heatstroke: What to Do Right Now

Move the dog somewhere cool and shaded with moving air (a fan, an open window, air conditioning).
Pour or spray cool, not ice-cold, water over the whole body, especially the neck, belly, armpits and groin. Recent research supports cool water immersion as the fastest safe cooling method for healthy dogs.
Keep the air moving over the wet coat. Evaporation is what actually cools.
Offer small amounts of cool water to drink if the dog is alert. Never force water into an unconscious dog.
Do not use ice, ice baths or wet towels left lying on the dog. They trap heat and can cause shock.
Ring the vet and go, even if the dog seems to recover. Heatstroke damages organs internally and dogs often crash hours later.

Prevention is simpler: walk early morning or late evening, never leave a dog in a parked car, test the pavement with the back of your hand for seven seconds, always carry water, and be extra careful with flat-faced, elderly, overweight or dark-coated dogs.

Veterinarian examining a dog during a check-up, panting with other symptoms needs a vet assessment — Panting plus any other symptom is a vet call, not a wait-and-see. (Photo: Pexels)

How to Help a Panting Dog at Home

Fresh, cool water available at all times. Add an ice cube or two, not a bowl of ice.
A cool, shaded room with a fan; a damp towel to lie on (not draped over), or a cooling mat.
Exercise in the cool parts of the day, and swap a long walk for sniffing games indoors when it’s hot.
Keep weight down, because overweight dogs overheat far faster.
Regular grooming so a thick coat doesn’t trap heat (but don’t shave double-coated breeds; the coat insulates against heat too).
For anxiety panting, work on the trigger: desensitisation, a safe den, calming routines, and your vet’s advice for fireworks or travel.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my dog panting at night when it’s not hot?

Common causes are pain (especially arthritis), anxiety, Cushing’s disease, heart problems, or cognitive decline in older dogs. Night-time panting with no heat is worth a vet check.

Why is my dog panting but not hot or tired?

Think stress, pain or illness. Look for other signs: restlessness, hiding, hunching, coughing, drinking more, and note when it happens so you can tell your vet.

Is heavy panting always an emergency?

No. But heavy panting plus abnormal gum colour, distressed breathing, collapse, vomiting or a bloated belly is. When in doubt, ring the vet. Phone advice is free and fast.

How long should a dog pant after a walk?

Usually 10 to 30 minutes, shorter for a fit dog and a short walk. Panting that carries on for more than about 30 minutes in a cool room deserves attention.

Do puppies pant more than adult dogs?

Yes. Puppies are less efficient at regulating temperature and get excited more easily, so they pant more readily, and they’re also more vulnerable to overheating.

Why does my dog pant in the car?

Usually travel anxiety or motion sickness, sometimes heat. Try a cooler, well-ventilated spot, no food for a few hours before the journey, gradual desensitisation, and ask your vet about anti-nausea options for long trips.

Pug panting in summer sunlight, flat-faced breeds overheat far more easily — Flat-faced breeds have less airway to cool with. They’re at the highest risk in the heat. (Photo: Pexels)

Final Thoughts

So, why is my dog panting so much? Nine times out of ten it’s heat, exercise or excitement, and it settles on its own. The tenth time it’s pain, heatstroke or an internal problem, and the signs that separate the two are gum colour, whether the panting stops, and what else is happening at the same time. Learn those three, and you’ll catch the emergencies early. For more on keeping your dog well, read how long dogs live and how to add years and why your dog follows you everywhere.

Why Does My Cat Bite Me? 7 Reasons and How to Stop It

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22nd September 2026

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Why Does My Cat Bite Me? 7 Reasons and How to Stop It

One minute your cat is purring on your lap, the next it’s clamped onto your hand. Or it nips your ankle as you walk past. Or it bites, hard, in the middle of a stroke it seemed to be enjoying. Why does my cat bite me? It’s one of the most common, and most confusing, questions cat owners ask. The good news: almost every bite has a clear reason, and most of them aren’t about aggression at all.

This guide explains the seven reasons cats bite their people, how to read the warning signs that come before a bite, what “love bites” actually mean, when biting is a medical or behavioural problem, and how to stop it without damaging your relationship with your cat.

7 Reasons Why Cats Bite

1. Petting-induced overstimulation (the “suddenly bites me while I stroke it” bite)

The most common bite of all. Your cat enjoys being stroked, until it doesn’t. Repetitive stroking builds up sensation until it becomes irritating, and the cat’s only way to say “enough” is teeth. It nearly always comes with warning signs first: a twitching or thumping tail, skin rippling along the back, ears flattening or rotating, dilated pupils, a sudden stillness, or the cat turning to look at your hand. Stop at the first sign and you’ll rarely be bitten.

2. Play aggression

Kittens learn to hunt by pouncing on and biting their littermates, and their littermates bite back, which teaches them how hard is too hard. Kittens taken from the litter too early, or raised alone, never learn that lesson and grow into cats that ambush ankles and bite hands during play. Adult cats with too little stimulation do the same: your moving feet are the only prey available.

Black and white kitten playfully biting a person's finger, kittens learn bite control from their littermates — Kittens raised with littermates learn bite inhibition. Ones raised alone often don’t. (Photo: Pexels)

3. “Love bites”

Gentle, soft-mouthed nibbles during cuddles, grooming or kneading are affection, not aggression. Cats groom each other with little nibbles, and a cat that licks your hand then gives it a soft bite is treating you like another cat. They don’t break the skin and they don’t come with tension or warning signs. Our guides to why cats lick you and why cats knead cover the same bonding behaviours.

4. Fear and defence

A cornered, startled or handled-against-its-will cat bites to protect itself. Classic triggers: being picked up when it doesn’t want to be, being restrained for medication or nail trimming, a child grabbing it, or a stranger reaching for it. The body language is unmistakable: crouched, ears flat, hissing, tail tucked or lashing.

5. Redirected aggression

Your cat sees another cat through the window, can’t get to it, and bites the nearest thing, which is you. Redirected bites are often the most serious because the cat is genuinely aroused and frustrated. If your cat is agitated by something outside, leave it alone until it calms down.

Tabby cat biting a person's hand on a sofa, petting-induced bites usually come with warning signs — Petting-induced bites almost always follow a twitching tail or flattened ears. (Photo: Pexels)

6. Pain or illness

A cat that bites when touched in a particular spot, whether the back, the belly or the base of the tail, may be in pain. Arthritis, dental disease, skin conditions, hyperthyroidism and abscesses all make cats bite when handled. A previously gentle cat that starts biting is a vet visit, not a behaviour problem.

7. Attention and communication

Some cats learn that a nip gets you to do things: feed them, open a door, stop typing and pay attention. If biting has ever worked, they’ll keep using it. It’s usually a firm-but-not-painful bite followed by a stare at whatever they want.

Warning Signs a Bite Is Coming

Tail twitching, flicking or thumping
Ears flattening, turning sideways or back
Skin rippling or twitching along the back
Pupils suddenly dilating
Body going still or tense; the cat stops purring
Head turning sharply towards your hand
Low growl or a short meow of complaint

Learn your cat’s sequence and stop before the last step. Most petting bites are entirely avoidable.

Fluffy cat being stroked by a hand near a window, stop petting at the first sign of a twitching tail — Short strokes on the head and cheeks are far less likely to overstimulate than long strokes down the back. (Photo: Pexels)

How to Stop Your Cat Biting You

Stop petting before the bite. Watch the tail and ears. Keep sessions short, stick to the head, cheeks and chin, and let the cat walk away when it wants to.
Never play with your hands. Hands and feet are not toys. Use wand toys, feather teasers and thrown balls so the “prey” is always something other than you.
Play more, properly. Two 10 to 15 minute wand-toy sessions a day, ending with a “catch” and a meal, drain the hunting energy that would otherwise go into your ankles.
Go still, then leave. If bitten, don’t yank away (it triggers the chase reflex) and don’t shout or hit. Freeze, gently withdraw, and end the interaction. The cat learns that biting makes the fun stop.
Redirect kittens. The moment teeth touch skin, swap in a toy. Consistency over a few weeks teaches bite inhibition.
Don’t reward the “attention” nip. If your cat bites to be fed, wait until it’s calm before you feed it. Otherwise you’ve trained it.
Manage triggers. Block the window view if outside cats set your cat off, give it escape routes and high perches, and teach children to stroke gently and never grab.
Consider a second cat, carefully. A lone, under-stimulated young cat sometimes does better with a playmate, but introductions must be slow.
See the vet if it’s new. Sudden biting in an adult cat means pain until proven otherwise.

Grey cat playing with a feather toy indoors, wand toys give cats something to bite that isn't your hand — Wand toys put the “prey” at a safe distance from your fingers. (Photo: Pexels)

What to Do If a Cat Bite Breaks the Skin

Cat bites are small but deep, and they get infected far more often than dog bites, up to half of untreated cat bites to the hand become infected. Wash the wound thoroughly with soap and running water for several minutes, apply an antiseptic, and cover it. See a doctor the same day if the bite is on the hand, near a joint, is deep, or if you notice redness, swelling, heat or pain spreading within 24 hours. Many need antibiotics. Anyone with a weakened immune system, or whose tetanus jab is out of date, should be seen promptly regardless.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my cat bite me gently?

Soft, unhurried nibbles during cuddles are “love bites”, affectionate grooming behaviour. If they’re gentle and there’s no tension in the cat’s body, it’s a compliment.

Why does my cat bite me then lick me?

That’s grooming. Cats nibble each other’s fur to work out tangles, then lick. A bite-then-lick on your hand or arm means you’ve been accepted as part of the family.

Why does my cat bite my feet and ankles?

Play aggression. Moving feet look like prey, especially to young, bored or single cats. More scheduled play and never letting feet be a toy fixes it.

Why does my cat bite me when I stop petting?

Attention biting. The nip means “don’t stop”. Give the cat a moment, then resume only when it’s calm, so the bite doesn’t become the way to ask.

Why does my cat bite me and no one else?

Usually because you’re the one who plays roughly with it, pets it longest, or has (unintentionally) rewarded biting before. It can also mean you’re the person it feels safest expressing itself with.

Is it normal for cats to bite?

Yes, biting is a normal part of cat communication and play. The goal isn’t a cat that never uses its mouth; it’s a cat that has learned how gently to do it, and an owner who can read the signs.

Two kittens play-fighting on a woven mat, kittens learn how hard to bite from each other — Littermates teach each other bite inhibition through play. (Photo: Pexels)

Final Thoughts

So, why does my cat bite me? Most often because you missed the warning signs, because play got out of hand, or because a soft nibble was actually a compliment. Read the tail, keep hands out of play, give your cat enough to hunt, and see the vet if biting is new. Do that, and the biting fades, and what’s left is a cat that trusts you enough to tell you what it needs. For more on cat behaviour, read why do cats purr? and 8 signs your cat is stressed.

Why Does My Dog Follow Me Everywhere? 8 Reasons (and When to Worry)

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22nd September 2026

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Why Does My Dog Follow Me Everywhere? 8 Reasons (and When to Worry)

Kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, back to the kitchen, and there’s the dog, two steps behind you every time. Why does my dog follow me everywhere? Owners of “velcro dogs” ask this constantly, half flattered and half wondering whether it’s healthy. The short answer: for most dogs it’s a mix of instinct, love and the very reasonable hope that something good is about to happen. For a few, it’s anxiety, and the difference matters.

This guide covers the eight real reasons dogs shadow their people, which breeds are wired for it, how to tell devotion from separation anxiety, when following becomes a problem, and how to help a clingy dog feel secure enough to relax on its own.

8 Reasons Why Your Dog Follows You Everywhere

1. You’re the pack

Dogs are social animals descended from pack hunters. Being near the group is safety; being alone is risk. To your dog, you’re the leader of a two-member pack, and staying close to you is simply what pack members do. It’s not neediness. It’s 15,000 years of instinct.

2. Positive reinforcement, you’re where good things happen

Food comes from you. Walks come from you. Ear scratches, treats, the sofa, the car ride, all you. Every time following you leads to something good, the behaviour is reinforced. A dog that trails you to the kitchen has learned, correctly, that kitchens produce snacks.

Dog following its owner through the apartment as they carry a plate of food, dogs learn that following leads to good things — Follow the human, find the croissant. Dogs are excellent at this maths. (Photo: Pexels)

3. Breed, some dogs were bred to stick to you

Working and companion breeds were selected for exactly this. Herding dogs (Border Collies, Australian Shepherds, German Shepherds) are wired to watch and stay with their person. Lap breeds (Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Chihuahuas, Pugs, Maltese) were bred purely for company. Retrievers and gundogs were bred to work beside a handler all day. If you have one of these, following you is the job description.

4. Curiosity and boredom

You’re the most interesting thing in the house. When nothing else is going on, watching what you do is the entertainment. Dogs that get too little exercise or mental stimulation follow more, because they’ve got nothing better to do.

5. Companionship and affection

Dogs genuinely bond with their people. Studies using MRI scans show a dog’s reward centre lights up at the scent of its owner more than at anything else, including food. Following you is often just wanting to be near the person it loves, the same instinct behind why your dog licks you.

6. Puppies, rescues and imprinting

Puppies between 3 and 12 weeks imprint on the people around them and follow them like they’d follow their mother. Rescue dogs often go through a “velcro” phase in a new home too. You’re the one safe thing in an unfamiliar world. Both usually settle as confidence grows.

Small schnauzer resting on a person's lap indoors, companion breeds were bred to stay close — Companion breeds like schnauzers, spaniels and pugs were bred to be exactly this close. (Photo: Pexels)

7. Something’s changed, or they’re not feeling well

A dog that suddenly starts following you more than usual may be reacting to a change: a house move, a new baby, a new pet, a change in your routine, or noises like fireworks. Illness and pain make dogs clingy too, and older dogs with failing eyesight, hearing or early cognitive decline often stick close because you’re their anchor. Sudden clinginess in a previously independent dog is worth a vet check.

8. Separation anxiety

This is the one to watch for. A dog with separation anxiety doesn’t just follow you. It panics when it can’t. Signs include pacing or whining when you head for the door, destruction, toileting or howling when you’re out, refusing to eat alone, and frantic greetings when you return. Following you around the house is normal; being unable to cope without you is not.

Devotion or Anxiety? How to Tell the Difference

Healthy following: the dog trails you, then settles nearby, lying down, dozing, chewing a toy. It can stay in another room and cope when you leave the house.
Anxious following: the dog can’t settle, stays on its feet, whines if a door closes between you, and shows distress (panting, drooling, pacing, destruction) when left alone.

If it’s the second, skip to the section on helping a clingy dog and speak to your vet or a qualified behaviourist. Separation anxiety responds well to treatment but rarely fixes itself.

Dalmatian sitting with its owner looking out of a window, a settled dog can relax nearby without needing constant contact — A secure dog stays close but can relax, and that’s the goal. (Photo: Pexels)

Is It a Problem If My Dog Follows Me Everywhere?

Usually no. A dog that follows you and then relaxes is a bonded, happy dog. It becomes a problem when:

the dog can’t be left alone at all without distress;
you’re tripping over the dog constantly (a real injury risk with big dogs and elderly owners);
the dog is anxious rather than content, always on alert, never settling;
the following started suddenly and comes with other changes in behaviour or health.

How to Help a Clingy Dog Feel Secure

Exercise and enrichment first. A tired, mentally satisfied dog follows less. Add a sniff walk, a training session or a puzzle feeder to the day.
Teach “place” or “settle”. Reward the dog for lying on a bed or mat while you move around. Start with seconds, build to minutes. This gives the dog a job that isn’t “watch the human”.
Practise short separations. Close a door between you for 10 seconds, return, reward calm. Slowly extend. Never make a fuss on leaving or returning.
Reward independence, not shadowing. If the dog chooses to stay in its bed while you go to the kitchen, that’s when the treat appears, not when it follows.
Give them something to do when you go. A frozen KONG or long-lasting chew on departure turns “you’re leaving” into “snack time”.
Don’t punish following. Shouting at a dog for being near you makes an anxious dog worse and confuses a loving one.
Get help for true separation anxiety. A vet can rule out medical causes and, if needed, a behaviourist can build a desensitisation plan. Medication is sometimes used alongside training for severe cases.

French Bulldog standing beside its owner on a gravel path, daily walks reduce clingy following at home — Enough exercise and sniffing outdoors means less shadowing indoors. (Photo: Pexels)

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my dog follow me to the bathroom?

Because you’re going somewhere and the pack goes together, and because closed doors bother dogs. Some dogs also see the bathroom as a moment when you’re finally sitting still and available for attention.

Why does my dog follow me and not my partner?

Dogs tend to shadow the person who feeds, walks and trains them, the person they bonded with first, or simply the one who moves around the most and is therefore most interesting. It isn’t a judgement on your partner.

Why has my dog suddenly started following me everywhere?

Sudden clinginess usually means something has changed, a new schedule, a move, a new pet or baby, fireworks season, or that the dog isn’t feeling well. If nothing in the household has changed, book a vet check, especially for an older dog.

Do dogs follow you because they trust you?

Yes, following is partly trust. A dog chooses to stay near the person it feels safest with.

What breeds follow their owners the most?

Herding breeds (Border Collie, Australian Shepherd, German Shepherd), gundogs (Labrador, Golden Retriever, Vizsla) and companion breeds (Cavalier King Charles, Chihuahua, Pug, Maltese, Shih Tzu). Vizslas are nicknamed “velcro dogs” for a reason.

Should I ignore my dog when it follows me?

Not ignore exactly, just don’t reward the following itself. Reward calm behaviour and settling instead, and make sure the dog’s needs (exercise, play, company) are met so it doesn’t need to shadow you to get them.

Scruffy dog gazing up hopefully indoors, dogs follow the people they trust most — That face is 15,000 years of “where are we going next?” (Photo: Pexels)

Final Thoughts

So, why does my dog follow me everywhere? Because you’re the pack, you’re the source of everything good, and, for a lot of breeds, sticking to you is literally what they were made for. Enjoy the company. Just make sure your dog can also switch off, cope alone and settle without you, and watch for sudden changes that could point to anxiety or illness. For more on reading your dog, see why dogs eat grass and how to help your dog live longer.

Why Does My Cat Knead Me? 6 Reasons Behind “Making Biscuits”

luveurpet

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18th September 2026

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Why Does My Cat Knead Me? 6 Reasons Behind “Making Biscuits”

Your cat climbs onto your lap, fixes you with a half-closed stare, and starts pushing its front paws into you, left, right, left, right, often purring, sometimes drooling, occasionally with claws. Why does my cat knead me? Cat owners call it “making biscuits”, and it’s one of the most endearing (and occasionally painful) things cats do. The short answer: kneading is a kitten behaviour that adult cats keep because it feels good, and they do it on the people and places they love most.

This guide explains where kneading comes from, the six reasons adult cats do it, why some cats knead with claws, drool or suckle at the same time, why kneading in an older cat can be worth a vet check, and how to enjoy the biscuits without the puncture wounds.

Where Kneading Comes From

Newborn kittens knead their mother’s belly while nursing. The rhythmic pushing stimulates milk flow, and it becomes hard-wired to the feeling of being warm, full and safe. Most behaviourists agree that adult cats keep kneading because it triggers that same comfort. Kneading you is, in a sense, your cat reliving its earliest, happiest memories. It’s also why so many cats purr, drool or go glassy-eyed while they do it.

Mother cat nursing her kittens on a blanket, kneading begins as a nursing reflex — Kittens knead to stimulate milk flow, and never quite grow out of it. (Photo: Pexels)

6 Reasons Why Cats Knead You

1. You’re their comfort zone

Kneading is self-soothing. A cat that kneads you is telling you that, right now, it feels as safe as it did as a kitten. It’s a huge compliment, and it’s why cats often knead just before settling down to sleep on you (see why does my cat sleep on me?).

2. Affection and bonding

Cats knead the people they’re bonded to, not strangers. If your cat kneads you and not your partner, it’s the same reason it sleeps on you: you’re the one it trusts most. Kneading, purring and slow blinks together are as close to “I love you” as a cat gets.

3. Marking you as theirs

Cats have scent glands between their toes. Every push of the paw leaves a little of your cat’s scent on you, a quiet way of claiming you as part of its territory and telling other cats “taken”. That’s also why cats knead blankets, cushions and beds: they’re stamping them.

Close-up of a ginger cat's paws pressing into a soft blue blanket, cats knead soft surfaces to mark and soften them — Scent glands in the paws mean every knead leaves a signature. (Photo: Pexels)

4. Making a bed

Wild cats trample grass and leaves to make a soft, safe nest before lying down. Your lap, the duvet and the sofa cushion get the same treatment. It’s instinct, even when the “grass” is a cashmere jumper.

5. Stretching

Kneading works the muscles and tendons in the shoulders and forelegs. Cats often do it after a long nap, the feline equivalent of a good stretch and a yawn.

6. Hormones and heat

Unspayed female cats knead more, often while lying on their side, purring loudly and lifting their hindquarters, when they’re in season. It’s a signal to males. If your female cat isn’t spayed and the kneading comes with yowling and restlessness, that’s what’s going on.

Why Does My Cat Knead With Claws Out?

Because it feels better with claws. Kittens knead with claws out to grip while nursing, and the stretch through the toes is part of the pleasure. It’s not aggression, a cat kneading with claws is usually in a state of total bliss and has no idea it’s hurting you. The fix isn’t to stop the kneading; it’s to manage the claws (see below).

Why Does My Cat Drool or Suckle While Kneading?

Both are throwbacks to nursing. Drooling comes from the anticipation of milk; suckling on a blanket, your jumper or your earlobe is the full kitten package. It’s most common in cats weaned early (before eight weeks), Siamese and Oriental breeds, and cats that were bottle-fed. It’s harmless unless the cat is swallowing fabric. Wool-eating (pica) needs a vet’s attention.

Woman relaxing on a bed with a book while her cat settles beside her, cats knead the people they trust — Cats knead the people they’re bonded to, not strangers. (Photo: Pexels)

Is Kneading Ever a Problem?

Almost never. Kneading is a sign of a relaxed, secure cat. Two exceptions worth knowing:

Sudden, obsessive kneading in an adult or senior cat: especially alongside more vocalising, clinginess or restlessness, can be a sign of stress, pain or, in older cats, hyperthyroidism or cognitive decline. Cats also knead more when they’re anxious, because it’s self-soothing. Our guide to the signs your cat is stressed covers what else to look for.
Kneading with suckling that turns into eating fabric: swallowed wool or thread can cause a blockage.

If kneading is new, frantic or paired with other changes, get a vet check. Otherwise, enjoy it.

How to Stop Kneading Hurting (Without Stopping the Kneading)

Keep the claws trimmed. A trim every 2 to 3 weeks takes the points off. Most cats accept it if you start slowly and use treats.
Put a barrier between you. Keep a folded blanket or cushion on your lap. The cat still gets to knead you, you get a layer of padding.
Redirect gently. If it’s getting painful, lift the cat onto a blanket beside you and stroke it there. Don’t push it off or shout. Kneading is the cat being affectionate, and punishing it damages trust.
Don’t declaw. It’s an amputation, it’s illegal in the UK and much of Europe, and it causes long-term pain and behaviour problems.
Give them a kneading spot. A soft fleece blanket that’s “theirs” satisfies the urge and saves your jumpers.

Cat's front paws resting on a cosy blanket, a soft blanket of their own gives cats somewhere to knead — A dedicated fleece blanket saves your lap and your jumpers. (Photo: Pexels)

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my cat knead me and then bite?

Usually overstimulation. Kneading puts cats in a heightened, dreamy state, and a stroke in the wrong place (belly, base of tail) can tip them into a nip. Watch for a twitching tail or flattened ears and stop petting before the bite.

Why does my cat knead me but not my partner?

You’re the one it feels safest with, often the person who feeds it, moves least, or bonded with it first. It’s not personal.

Why does my cat knead my face or hair?

Your head is warm, still and smells strongly of you. Some cats also suckle hair. It’s the closest thing to a mother’s fur.

Why do cats knead blankets and purr?

Soft blankets feel like a mother’s belly. Kneading plus purring is the full nursing memory playing out, pure contentment.

Do male cats knead?

Yes. Both sexes knead from kittenhood. Unspayed females knead more when in season, but neutered males and females knead just as happily.

Why does my cat knead the air?

Some cats knead while lying on their back or side, paws pushing at nothing. It’s the same reflex without a surface, usually a sign the cat is deeply relaxed.

Tabby cat peeking out from under a blanket with one paw extended, kneading and claws are a package deal — Kneading with claws isn’t aggression. It’s a cat that’s forgotten you’re not a blanket. (Photo: Pexels)

Final Thoughts

So, why does my cat knead me? Because you’re warm, you’re safe, you’re theirs, and pushing paws into you feels exactly like being a kitten again. It’s one of the clearest signs of a happy, bonded cat. Trim the claws, keep a blanket handy, and take the biscuits as the compliment they are. For more on what your cat is telling you, read why do cats purr? and why does my cat lick me?